Gazas ansikter

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I en teltleir i Deir al-Balah, midt i Gaza, har 47 år gamle Ismael Mohammed ikke fått sove på flere dager. Det er ikke angst eller frykt som holder ham våken, men glede. 

Etter 15 måneder på flukt, kan han og familien endelig ta fatt på turen hjem til Jabalia. Dette er første gang siden høsten 2023 at palestinere får returnere til Nord-Gaza. 

– Jeg har ventet på denne dagen lenge, sier Ismael, til Reuters.

Ismael Mohammed, 47, who was displaced with his family to the southern part of Gaza at Israel's order during the war, plays with his son Mohammed, 5, inside their tent, before returning to their destroyed house in northern Gaza amid a ceasefire between Israel and Hamas, in Deir al-Balah, central Gaza Strip, January 26, 2025. After the ceasefire took effect, hundreds of thousands of people left the temporary shelters they had crowded into across the south and trekked back north, the Mohammed family had learned from relatives that their home had been destroyed in an air strike but they had been ready to return as soon as the ceasefire was agreed. 'Shrapnel passed by the children while they were sleeping here. It went through the cover while I was here in the tent. The children were sick from fear,' said Badreya, 42, Ismael's wife. REUTERS/Ramadan Abed          SEARCH 'GAZA JOURNEY HOME' FOR THIS STORY. SEARCH 'WIDER IMAGE' FOR ALL STORIES.         TPX IMAGES OF THE DAY  Foto: Ramadan Abed

Hva som venter dem er de usikker på, men de vet at de returnerer tilbake til ødelagte minner. De skal møte det som engang var et hjem, men som nå mest sannsynlig er redusert til støv og ruiner. 

Med på hjemreisen er hans kone Badreya, deres barn Waseem, Naseem, Maysoon, Yasser, Abdulrahman og Mohammed. I tillegg til Waseems kone og deres to barn.

– En splint suste forbi barna mens de sov i teltet. Barna har blitt syke av krigen, forteller Badreya. 

Kvelden før er familien samlet til en siste middag inne i teltet. 

 Ramadan Abed / Reuters / NTB
MIDDAG: Et siste måltid blir spist inne i teltet før hjemreisen starter. Foto: Ramadan Abed / Reuters / NTB

Ismael og Badreyas barn og barnebarn legger seg til leggetid, spent på hva morgendagen bringer. 

 Ramadan Abed / Reuters / NTB
LEGGETID: Barna skal få seg en natt med søvn før den store reisen starter. Foto: Ramadan Abed / Reuters / NTB

Teltet i Deir al-Balah er bare 18 kilometer fra deres hjem i Jabalia. Men det er vanskelig å få leie eller skyss med en en bil som må stå i timevis ved israelske kontrollposter. 

Som de fleste andre familier må de ta fatt i beina og gå den lange strekningen hjem. 

Etter at teltet er demontert, er familien klar for å gå. 

 Dawoud Abu Alkas / Reuters / NTB
PAUSE: Badreya og barna tar en kort pause langs veien. Foto: Dawoud Abu Alkas / Reuters / NTB

Alle bortsett fra de minste barna skal bære store pakker lastet med sengetøy, klær, kjøkkenutstyr, mat og vann.

Turen vil ta mange timer.

For Ismael er reisen skremmende. Han har diabetes og mistet en arm på grunn av sykdommen før krigen. 

I fjor ble beinet hans skadet i et israelsk luftangrep. Han kan ikke gå som normalt, og må bruke stokk. På ryggen skal han bære en sekk med eiendeler. 

Ismael Mohammed (center), 47, and his family, who were displaced to the southern part of Gaza at Israel's order during the war, return to their destroyed house amid a ceasefire between Israel and Hamas, in Gaza City, January 28, 2025. Deir al-Balah is only 11 miles (around 18 km) from their Jabalia home, but cars, which must queue for hours at an Israeli checkpoint, are rare and expensive to hire and, like most families, the Mohammeds had to walk. 'I haven't slept for the past three nights from joy. I long for my land, my town Jabalia, and the people of the north, to see our kin,' said Ismael. REUTERS/Dawoud Abu Alkas         SEARCH 'GAZA JOURNEY HOME' FOR THIS STORY. SEARCH 'WIDER IMAGE' FOR ALL STORIES.         TPX IMAGES OF THE DAY  Foto: Dawoud Abu Alkas

I krigens innledende fase fokuserte Israel på den nordlige delen av Gazastripen. Hundretusenvis av palestinere fikk ordre om å evakuere sørover, og har vært på flukt i over et år. 

At Ismael og familien nå får vende tilbake er en del av våpenhvileavtalen mellom Israel og Hamas. 

Julan, displaced with her family to the southern part of Gaza at Israel's order during the war, poses for a portrait inside their tent, before returning to their destroyed house in northern Gaza amid a ceasefire between Israel and Hamas, in Deir al-Balah, central Gaza Strip, January 26, 2025. After the ceasefire took effect, hundreds of thousands of people left the temporary shelters they had crowded into across the south and trekked back north, the Mohammed family had learned from relatives that their home had been destroyed in an air strike but they had been ready to return as soon as the ceasefire was agreed. 'Shrapnel passed by the children while they were sleeping here. It went through the cover while I was here in the tent. The children were sick from fear,' said Badreya, 42, Julan's grandmother. REUTERS/Ramadan Abed          SEARCH 'GAZA JOURNEY HOME' FOR THIS STORY. SEARCH 'WIDER IMAGE' FOR ALL STORIES. Foto: Ramadan Abed

Langs veien krysser de flere nabolag i total ruin. Det ligger hauger av stein langs hver side der bygningene engang har stått. 

– Da vi nærmet oss Jabalia, og jeg så alt som var borte, føltes det som om vi ikke kom til å finne noe. Ikke engang vårt eget hus, sier Ismael. 

Ismael Mohammed, 47, who was displaced with his family to the southern part of Gaza at Israel's order during the war, gives water to his son Mohammed, 5, as they rest on the road while making their way back to their destroyed house in northern Gaza,  amid a ceasefire between Israel and Hamas, in Gaza City, January 28, 2025. Deir al-Balah is only 11 miles (around 18 km) from their Jabalia home, but cars, which must queue for hours at an Israeli checkpoint, are rare and expensive to hire and, like most families, the Mohammeds had to walk. 'I haven't slept for the past three nights from joy. I long for my land, my town Jabalia, and the people of the north, to see our kin,' said Ismael. REUTERS/Dawoud Abu Alkas         SEARCH 'GAZA JOURNEY HOME' FOR THIS STORY. SEARCH 'WIDER IMAGE' FOR ALL STORIES. Foto: Dawoud Abu Alkas

Da de nådde Gaza by, forbi de israelske sjekkpunktene fant de en taxi som kunne frakte dem det siste stykket. 

Hele familien klemte seg inn i den ene bilen.

 Dawoud Abu Alkas / Reuters / NTB
SKYSS: På den gjenstående etappen finner familien en bil som kan frakte dem helt hjem. Foto: Dawoud Abu Alkas / Reuters / NTB

De siste kilometerne var en påminnelse om at krigen hadde forvandlet hjemmet deres til en spøkelsesby. 

Det som engang var et nabolag, var bare et stort landskap av ødelagte bygninger. 

– Det er godt å være tilbake, men ikke en fullstendig glede. Det er ikke noe hjem, ikke noe vann eller mat.

Ismael Mohammed, 47, who was displaced with his family to the southern part of Gaza at Israel's order during the war, searches for belongings amongst the rubble of their destroyed house, after returning amid a ceasefire between Israel and Hamas, in Jabalia, northern Gaza Strip, January 30, 2025. Through long stretches, the road traversed districts of near total ruin, with mounds of rubble lining each side where buildings had stood; in Jabalia they surveyed the ruins. Much of the neighbourhood had been flattened. 'There is joy, but it is not complete. There is no home, no water, no food. I do not know how I am going to sleep tonight,' said Ismael. REUTERS/Dawoud Abu Alkas         SEARCH 'GAZA JOURNEY HOME' FOR THIS STORY. SEARCH 'WIDER IMAGE' FOR ALL STORIES. Foto: Dawoud Abu Alkas

I ruinene sitter familien uten noe. Teltet de hadde i Deir al Balah ble gitt til en nabo. Nå har de ingenting å finne ly under. 

Det er tomt der de engang hadde et hjem. 

Barna begynner å lete etter eiendelene sine. I de forlatte ruinene finner de et glimt av fortiden. En hvit enhjørning med rosa ører dukker opp fra steinmassene.

Mohammed, 5, who was displaced with his family to the southern part of Gaza, plays with a toy retrieved from under the rubble of their house, after returning to it amid a ceasefire between Israel and Hamas, in Jabalia, northern Gaza Strip, January 30, 2025. Through long stretches, the road traversed districts of near total ruin, with mounds of rubble lining each side where buildings had stood; in Jabalia they surveyed the ruins. Much of the neighbourhood had been flattened. 'There is joy, but it is not complete. There is no home, no water, no food. I do not know how I am going to sleep tonight,' said Ismael, 47, Mohammed's father. REUTERS/Dawoud Abu Alkas         SEARCH 'GAZA JOURNEY HOME' FOR THIS STORY. SEARCH 'WIDER IMAGE' FOR ALL STORIES. Foto: Dawoud Abu Alkas

FN anslår at over 90 prosent av boligene i Gaza har blitt skadet under krigen. Av disse er 160.000 fullstendig ødelagt, mens ytterligere 270.000 har fått omfattende skader. 

– Jeg vet ikke hvordan vi skal sove her, sier barnefaren.

Ismael tenner et bål og henter ut madrasser fra ruinene. Her skal de tilbringe de neste nettene.

Familien håper at våpenhvilen varer slik at de kan bygge opp det de har mistet. 

Ismael Mohammed, 47, and his children, who were displaced with their family to the southern part of Gaza at Israel's order during the war, search for belongings amongst the rubble of their destroyed house, after returning to it amid a ceasefire between Israel and Hamas, in Jabalia, northern Gaza Strip, January 30, 2025. Through long stretches, the road traversed districts of near total ruin, with mounds of rubble lining each side where buildings had stood; in Jabalia they surveyed the ruins. Much of the neighbourhood had been flattened. 'There is joy, but it is not complete. There is no home, no water, no food. I do not know how I am going to sleep tonight,' said Ismael. REUTERS/Dawoud Abu Alkas         SEARCH 'GAZA JOURNEY HOME' FOR THIS STORY. SEARCH 'WIDER IMAGE' FOR ALL STORIES. Foto: Dawoud Abu Alkas
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